Guides · Repairs
How to patch a hole in drywall: small, medium and large
The method depends on the size of the hole. Nail holes need only spackle. A doorknob-sized hole needs a mesh patch. Anything bigger needs a new piece of drywall. In each case the patch only disappears if you sand it smooth and prime it before you paint.
- Work time
- 15 min to 2 h
- Drying
- Overnight, often
- Skill
- Beginner
Before you cut or sand. Wires and pipes run behind walls, especially near outlets, switches and plumbing. Look before you cut, and switch off the breaker if you are working near an outlet. In homes built before 1978, paint may contain lead, and older joint compound can contain asbestos; have it tested before you sand.
Tools and materials
- Putty knives, 1½ in and 6 inThe narrow one for small holes, the wide one to spread compound thin and wide.
- Lightweight spackleFor nail and screw holes. It shrinks little and dries fast.
- Joint compoundFor mesh patches and new drywall. Pre-mixed all-purpose is easiest.
- Self-adhesive mesh patchFor holes up to about 4–6 in. Choose one at least 2 in wider than the hole.
- Drywall offcut, same thicknessFor large holes. Most interior walls are ½ in; measure at the hole's edge. Small panels are sold for patching.
- Drywall sawCuts the damaged area square for a large patch.
- Drywall tapePaper or mesh, to cover the seams around a new piece.
- Sanding sponge, fineLess dust than sandpaper and follows the wall.
- PrimerStops the patch showing as a dull spot through the paint.
- Dust maskSanding dust is fine and gets everywhere.
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Small holes: nails, screws, anchors
- Clean the hole. Pull out any anchor, or push it slightly below the surface. Knock off loose paper or paint.
- Fill it. Press spackle in with the narrow knife, then scrape across so it is level with the wall.
- Let it dry and sand. Follow the drying time on the tub. Sand lightly until you cannot feel the edge.
- Prime and paint. A dab of primer, then paint. For deep holes, a second thin coat of spackle before sanding.
Medium holes: up to about 4–6 in
- Tidy the edges. Cut away torn paper with a utility knife and sand any bumps flat, so the patch sits flat.
- Stick on the mesh patch, centred over the hole and pressed down firmly at the edges.
- First coat. Spread joint compound over the patch with the wide knife, a few inches past its edges. Keep it thin; you should still see the mesh.
- Second and third coats. When each coat is dry, add another, a little wider each time, feathering the edges to nothing.
- Sand, prime, paint. Sand until the edge cannot be felt, wipe off the dust, prime the whole patch, then paint.
Large holes: bigger than about 6 in
- Cut a square. Draw a square or rectangle around the damage and cut it out with the drywall saw. Cut shallow and check behind the wall as you go.
- Add backing. Screw strips of wood inside the opening, behind the top and bottom (or left and right) edges, so the new piece has something to attach to.
- Fit the new piece. Cut drywall of the same thickness to fit, and screw it to the backing. Set the screw heads just below the surface without tearing the paper.
- Tape and coat the seams. Tape all four seams, then cover tape and screw heads with joint compound. Add two more coats, each wider than the last.
- Sand, prime, paint. As above. Painting the whole wall, corner to corner, hides the patch best.
Renting? Small nail holes are usually treated as normal wear, but check your lease. Ask your landlord for the paint name and colour before you touch up, or the patch may show as a different shade.
When to call a pro
- The wall is wet, soft or stained: find and fix the leak first.
- The damage crosses a corner, ceiling or a large part of the wall.
- You find wires or pipes in the way, or the test for lead or asbestos is positive.
Related: The starter tool kit for a first home or apartment.
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