Guides · Plumbing
How to replace a bathroom faucet yourself
Swapping a bathroom faucet on the same water lines is one of the easier plumbing jobs. The two things that go wrong are buying a faucet that doesn't fit the sink's holes, and skipping the leak check. This guide covers both.
- Time
- 1 to 2 hours
- Skill
- Beginner+
- Water off
- At the sink
Renting? Ask your landlord first. Many leases don't allow changes to fixtures, and the landlord may want their plumber to do it.
1. Check which faucet fits your sink
Look under the old faucet, or count the holes in the sink or counter top behind it. Then measure from the centre of the left hole to the centre of the right hole.
- One hole: a single-hole faucet. Many come with a cover plate, so they can also go on a three-hole sink.
- Three holes, 4 in apart (outer centres): a centerset faucet, handles and spout on one base.
- Three holes, 6–16 in apart, most often 8 in: a widespread faucet, with separate handles and spout.
The faucet's box lists the hole setup it fits. If you are not sure, take a photo of the sink from above and of the connections underneath to the store.
Tools and materials
- The new faucetMatched to your sink's holes (above). Check that it includes a drain, or keep your old one.
- Braided supply lines, 2Old lines are cheap to replace and a common source of leaks. Match the length and both ends' sizes to your valves and faucet.
- Basin wrenchReaches the nuts behind the sink bowl that an ordinary wrench can't.
- Adjustable wrenchFor the supply line nuts at the shut-off valves.
- Plumber's putty or siliconeOnly if the faucet's instructions call for it; many come with a rubber gasket instead. Putty can stain some stone, so check the instructions.
- Headlamp or flashlightThe space under a vanity is dark.
- Small bucket and old towelsTo catch the water left in the lines.
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2. Remove the old faucet
- Shut off the water. Turn both valves under the sink clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to check the water is off and to let the pressure out.
- Take a photo of how everything is connected before you take it apart.
- Disconnect the supply lines at the shut-off valves, with the bucket underneath. If the drain stopper has a lift rod, unscrew it from the drain behind the pipe.
- Undo the mounting nuts under the sink with the basin wrench, and lift the faucet out from above.
- Clean the surface where the old faucet sat. Scrape off old putty or caulk so the new base sits flat.
3. Install the new faucet
- Follow the faucet's own instructions for its parts; designs differ. Seat the gasket, or a thin rope of putty if the instructions call for it.
- Set the faucet in the holes from above and tighten its mounting hardware from below. Check that it faces straight before the last turn. Don't overtighten.
- Connect the supply lines: hot to the left, cold to the right. Hand-tight, then about a quarter turn with the wrench. These compression fittings don't need thread tape.
- Fit the drain if a new one came with the faucet, and connect the lift rod.
4. Turn the water on and check for leaks
- Take off the aerator (the screen at the spout tip) by hand.
- Open the shut-off valves slowly, then run hot and cold for a minute to flush out grit, and screw the aerator back on.
- Check every connection with a dry paper towel. Check again the next day; a slow drip shows up later.
- If a joint drips, tighten it a little more, an eighth of a turn at a time.
When to call a plumber
- The shut-off valves are missing, won't turn, or don't stop the water fully.
- The valves or pipes are corroded, or move when you touch them.
- You want to move the faucet, change the pipes in the wall, or add a new sink. That work often needs a licensed plumber and a permit.
Related: The starter tool kit for a first home or apartment.
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